Hard to believe it’s a year already since we were on the adventure of a lifetime!! May 21st, 2024 – Ajey, Manasi and I reached Everest Base Camp! It had been a long journey – far longer than the 12 day trek itself – not just physically, but also mentally!! And although it definitely took a toll, the rewards were far richer than I had ever expected! I started off full of doubts and misgivings, but came back feeling invincible!! I had done it – and if I could achieve this – why, there’s literally nothing I couldn’t do if I set my mind to it!! Along the way, there were several pieces of advice from friends that proved to be invaluable, and also a lot of things that I feel we could have done better. So if the EBC trek is on your bucket list, you’re in the right place – read on for the ABCs of the EBC! (I know, I know – corny title – but certainly better than ABCEBC, which was my first choice. Get it? ‘Any Body Can EBC’!)
Section 1 – Getting Ready
Logistics – Once the decision to go is made (and if you’re like me, this is a whole journey in itself!), the first thing to do is pick your dates. The best ‘season’ to go is April-May or October-November – the clearest skies for the best views. Come June, the monsoon rolls in and December to March will be peak winter! The actual trek from Lukla to EBC and back is 12 days, 3 more days if you decide to take the Chola Pass-Gokyo Ri route (more on this coming up), 3 days of travel to Kathmandu and back, add a couple of buffer days – you’re looking at almost 3 weeks. Before you rush to book airline tickets – decide on a guide, and confirm your dates. Having a guide means that you don’t have to worry about any other logistics once you land in Kathmandu – the permits, the lodges along the way, food and water and most importantly, the flight to Lukla! Our guide, Ganesh Karki, was recommended to us by my cousin, GB – and I am happy to also recommend him! You can find his information here – High Pass Adventure.
With your guide’s help, you can plan out your itinerary – the trek to EBC and the stops along the way, are pretty standard. If you’re up to an additional challenge – you can add the Chola Pass and Gokyo Ri as well. If you decide to add these, I would highly recommend taking that route on your way back from EBC – this way, you have the best shot of making it to EBC! There are several flight options to get to Kathmandu – we flew Turkish Air, with a layover in Istanbul. Indian citizens do not require a visa to enter Nepal – for all others, Kathmandu airport has a visa-on-arrival facility. There are several websites that offer a ‘pre-visa’ for Nepal – you can safely ignore all these. At the airport, you’ll need your passport (duh!), your itinerary and your return tickets from Kathmandu. The visa was $30 for 15 days, $50 for 30 days – and you can pay in dollars at the airport counter.
Of course, the question foremost on everyone’s mind – how much is this going to cost? Flights from your home location to Kathmandu and back – international flight rates being so unpredictable these days, it is what it is – we paid $800 roundtrip per person from Chicago to Kathmandu. For the duration of the trek, we negotiated $1300 per person with Ganesh – a big chunk of this was the return ticket to Lukla, and also included was the stay along the way at teahouses and 2 nights in Kathmandu, all meals starting from Lukla, unlimited drinking water, all tourist permits and a guide and a porter. Any snacks, personal items or bottled water you purchase along the way – you pay yourself. If you have a larger group, or you choose to join a group that your guide is putting together, the cost will vary accordingly. Don’t be surprised if your guide asks for an advance – they will need the money to buy your Lukla tickets and getting the permits ready. We used the Western Union service to transfer the advance, rest was paid in cash in dollars. Oh, and almost forgot – we did pay for travel insurance in case emergency evacuation by helicopter is needed – head to World Nomads for your quote!
Physical and mental fitness – The EBC trek is considered to be one of the ‘easier’ treks – what that means is there’s no technical climbing using special equipment, no bouldering or navigating around obstacles on the path or challenging terrain. On the other hand, it is certainly not your ordinary hike along a trail and a certain level of fitness and preparation will be needed to be successful! If you’ve heard that the trail is flat – expect that it is ‘Nepal flat’ – which still means it will be quite an incline! So the main preparation needed is to lift those knees – just plain walking does not cut it. The best way to practice this is on the ‘Stairmaster’ or stepping machine – which is the main reason we signed up with Planet Fitness. I always thought of myself as reasonably fit – but seriously, the Stairmaster is a next level torture! My first day at the gym, I barely got to 200 steps before absolutely collapsing – the 5000 step goal Ajey had set seemed insurmountable!! Let me tell you, it is very easy to give up at this point – and easier said than done – keep on at it, small increments every day!
For almost a year, we were at the gym every single day – building up to 1500 steps in 30 minutes on the Stairmaster, followed by 30 minutes on the treadmill at a 12-14% incline. The goal is not speed, but resilience! Find your motivation – I was totally driven by the fear that I had taken on more than I could handle!! – not a happy endorphin in sight here!! As we got closer to the departure, we did a couple of marathon sessions – the magic 5000 steps and 5 mile combo finally achieved!! And then several full-day hikes in Peoria’s Robinson Park – we are lucky enough to have a little bit of terrain here, so there was a bit of practice climbing up and down hills. Also, for the last month, we were at the gym with our hiking boots and backpacks filled with bottled water – to get used to the additional weight. What is it they say – 21 days to form a habit? Well, I can definitely attest to that – push through that first month, and then it does get easier. And the accidental side-effects of this forced gymming are awesome – you’ll feel fitter and better than ever!!
Mental fitness is equally, if not more, important here! This of course, starts with the discipline to hit the gym regularly. Once you’ve committed to this, you should be absolutely prepared to give your very best! With so much information now available online, you can build a mental picture of what to expect on the trek – so read, read, read. Talk to folks who have been on Himalayan treks – each person will have their unique perspectives. Ajey had printed out a map of the route – from Lukla to Gorakshep – and looking at it every day, reciting the village names – made for a very powerful manifestation! Internalize the inconveniences and hardships of the trek – so that they don’t become obstacles during the trek. Come what may, you’re doing this – that’s the mantra to hold on to! And to be very honest, no matter how much you prepare – the reality will still be nothing at all like you imagined or expected! This will push you to the very limits of your mental and physical endurance – but when you’re done, it will have been the most magical, breathtaking and rewarding experience of your life!!
Section 2 – Pack your bags!
For the three of us, we had one porter who was to carry 2 duffel bags, each about 25kgs – this would be everything we would need during the whole trek. I think it would have given us a little more breathing room to have one bag each – but overall, I think we did fine. We used this Packing List as a reference – and also, very important, as a checklist before we finally packed our bags! I really wish I had taken a photo of all our stuff laid out before going into suitcases – would have made a great addition to this post!! I did order a lot of stuff online and I have included Amazon links at the end of the post – for everything I thought was really useful on the trek!
Clothes – Layers are your best friend here – multiple layers will not only keep you warmer, but can be easily taken off or on for optimal comfort. I would recommend 2 pairs of regular hiking pants, 1 pair of lined hiking pants and a couple of leggings to layer with the hiking pants. Neither Manasi nor I used our short-sleeved T-shirts, but did wish we had an extra long-sleeved T-shirt – so I would say 4 long-sleeved shirts, preferably breathable, moisture-wicking material. We were able to pick up good shirts in Kathmandu, a lot more color and variety than what I had seen here – so that could also be an option. For the first 7-8 days, I layered a long-sleeved shirt with a fleece and that was plenty warm – Ajey preferred a vest for his layer. Good quality Merino wool socks – to keep your feet warm and dry in your boots. I had a thermal sweatshirt and leggings that I changed into every night – it was the perfect, comfortable night wear. Sports bras and underwear – 5 of each – I know it’s icky, but if you’re extra particular, you’ll have to cut back somewhere else. And getting into nitty-gritties here – you’re going to walking all day long, for several days – so keep in mind the high likelihood of chafing as you pick your clothing!
Outerwear – In the spring, the April-May season, it will rain at least a couple of times – so a rain jacket, or poncho is a must – although I find the ponchos are too flimsy – with a hood. Down or puffer winter coat – if you don’t own a down coat, ask your guide – they usually have parkas that they will rent at a nominal amount. You will definitely need a down jacket once you get past Dingboche – I even slept in mine the last night at Gorakshep – so don’t skip this! 2 pairs of gloves – heavy Gore-Tex ones for the last few days, and lightweight wool or fleece gloves for other times – believe me, you’re going to wear gloves ALL the time!! Sun-hat with a wide brim, woolen beanies and the multifunctional buffs – which will protect your neck, ears and face from the cold, the wind and the sun. I was surprised at how useful the buffs were – we bought ours in the market at Namche Bazaar, and pretty much used them every single day after that! I know a lot of folks go for the polarized, UV-protection sports sunglasses or ski goggles – I used my regular pair, and they worked just fine – there’s really no glare reflecting off the snow and ice, especially in May, but eye protection from sun definitely needed! In addition to your hiking boots, pack a pair of comfortable shoes or sandals that you can wear in the evenings at the teahouse.
Hiking gear – The most important part of your gear is good hiking boots! There is a wide variety of brands available – ours were the Merrell brand. Whichever boots you get, make sure they fit comfortably and snugly with your thick socks on, with adequate support for your ankles. And you definitely don’t want to buy these in Kathmandu – you have to break these in – wear them to the gym, on your practice walks, heck, even just at home – to get used to the feel and the weight, and also to avoid painful blisters later. I used 1 trekking pole for the entire trip, I really needed to have 1 hand free – but a lot of folks hike with a pair of poles – again, practice to figure out what’s most comfortable. A lot of the trekking blogs mention sleeping bags – I didn’t feel the need at all – all the teahouses were generous with their blankets, besides, a sleeping bag will take up precious space you could allocate to, say, more underwear?! The same with the backpacks – it’s a different story if you’re hiking solo, but with a porter, all you’re carrying in your backpack is your daily water, couple of layers, personal items – so a smaller one will suffice. Check that your backpack does have a rain cover! Crampons – not needed for the EBC trek, however if you add Chola Pass, you’ll be walking across a glacier – and crampons will definitely be needed. We saw several stores in Kathmandu selling these. Ajey also got us Smart Watches – that only tracked steps and altitude, but also blood pressure, heart rate, pulse and importantly for this trip – blood oxygen levels! As with all gear, don’t try anything new – I never ever wear a watch, and after a couple of days, I was so uncomfortable with the Smart Watch that it went into by backpack! Plus, the guide will have an oximeter, so you don’t have to carry one.
Toiletries – All your regular toiletries, of course – even if there’s no running water, you’re still going to brush your teeth and wash your face!! In the absence of showers, there were 2 things that made life slightly bearable – first, all body deodorant. I got the Lume brand, with a promised 72 hour protection, and I literally, slathered myself with it – shoulders, small of the back, backs of knees, feet – pretty much anywhere you’re going to sweat! Second, was these incredible disposable no-rinse bathing wipes – wet them, scrub your skin and wipe off with a towel – after the day’s hike, these took off the worst of the grime! I had our thin cotton towels (pancha), but a microfiber towel would be better. Toilet paper and/or toilet wipes – get more than what you’re expecting to use – we paid $10 for one roll of TP after we ran out in Dingboche! Face wash, moisturizer, lotion, lip balm – there is a lot of windburn and chapping! Sunscreen with the highest SPF, and lip balm with sunscreen is important. Along the trail, there is not much opportunity to wash hands – so carry extra hand sanitizer.
First Aid Box – The regular suspects here, of course – Band-aids, Tums, all prescription drugs, Advil/Tylenol (pain-killer of choice). We took the decision to take Diamox – this is a respiratory stimulant that helps with the altitude sickness. Opinion is divided – but why not give your body every helpful boost you can? Diamox is also a diuretic – so the side effect is that you have to pee a lot – but with the amount of water that you will be drinking to stay hydrated, that is a given anyway. Diamox also caused some intense tingling in fingertips and toes – not sure if every one gets that! In the US, Diamox is available by prescription only – so talk to your GP. Our doctor also gave us some steroids to take for the last push to EBC – Ajey and I did take them for a couple of days, but I can’t really say they made a huge difference. We also had garlic oil pills – but these made me terribly nauseous – so stopped after two days. It is recommended to not take any painkillers – since they may mask symptoms of serious altitude sickness – so I used a Lidocaine foot pain cream every night, which was a great relief to tired, achy feet! Desitin – yes, that diaper rash cream – it works like a miracle for chafing! Plenty of throat lozenges- we even had our Ayurvedic Kanthil to soothe the persistent, nagging Khumbu cough that you’re sure to develop!
Other essentials – Water bottles – each of us carried 2 1 liter bottles – cannot stress enough the need to stay hydrated! We also had the head lamps, but I don’t think we really needed to use them – since most of our rooms had ensuite bathrooms. For all the paper waste you will generate – including used TP, wipes, wrappers – we carried disposable diaper bags. I regretfully left my SLR camera at home – but with my trusty iPhone camera, didn’t miss it too much! Remember to carry chargers and/or extra batteries for any electronics you’re taking – we only had our phones with us. I did carry a notebook and pen – every night before dinner, I would jot down the happenings of the day – and these were a great help for my blog posts! Almost every single night, we played cards in the dining rooms – there’s really not enough space to hang out in the rooms, besides, only the dining room is heated in most teahouses! I did have a few books downloaded on my phone – but was too tired most nights to read beyond a few pages. Protein bars, granola bars, candy – there was some loss of appetite at the higher altitudes, but we would share a protein bar once or twice during the day to keep up the energy. Do offer these to your guide and porter – they will surely appreciate the gesture! Sachets of electrolytes – Gatorade has a lot of flavors, and these did really great when added to our water bottles.
For the ladies – For starters, panty liners and feminine wipes go a long way to stay somewhat fresh – even when you’re reusing underwear! If you’re expecting your monthlies during the trek, make sure you pack your preferred choice of protection – I read a lot about menstrual cups and other gadgets that experienced trekkers use – but the EBC trek is not the best place to experiment with new things, so stay with the tried and tested! There are stretches along the trail with no viable restrooms – and if you’re drinking the recommended amount of water – there will be times when you have no choice but to duck behind a tree or a boulder. Don’t hesitate – or insist on indoor toilets – this is just one of the discomforts you will have to face. I always had a pack of the Summers Eve wipes and hand sanitizer in my backpack – to make the best of an impossible situation. Remember, come what may…
Section 3 – EBC, here I come!
So you’ve put in your time at the gym, packed your bags, and made it to Kathmandu – where you’re greeted at the airport with garlands by your guide! Welcome to Nepal, and the beginning of a fantastic adventure!
Duffel bags – Your guide will bring you the duffel bags that your porter will carry for you. Our suitcases with our travel clothes and some extras we stored at our hotel in Kathmandu. We had 2 duffel bags between the 3 of us – Manasi and I shared one, Ajey got all our supplies in his. I had separate little baggies for my things – one for the socks, one for underwear, one for the sports bras, you get it – this is really useful when you’re fishing for clothes in the early mornings, also keeps your clothes dry in case it rains. Nothing fancy, even gallon sized Ziplock bags will work. Don’t forget a laundry bags for dirty clothes, and an in-between bag for clothes you will reuse. Anything you need for the day, put in your backpack – snacks for the day, water, sunscreen, sanitizer, wipes, an extra layer, rain jacket – and any valuables or electronics, of course! For the first couple of days, I carried my teahouse sandals in my backpack – to give my feet a break from the hiking shoes at lunch – but those soon went into the duffel bag too!
Accommodation – Starting with Kathmandu, our guide had booked us teahouses/lodges for the duration of the trail. The Kathmandu hotel was in the touristy area of Thamel, and the rooms were pretty basic. The location is fantastic! The teahouses – we were pleasantly surprised that most of the way, we had ensuite bathrooms. There’s no running water after Namche Bazaar, there usually was a big barrel of stored water in each bathroom – but it truly was a luxury to not have to stumble out into the corridor to use the bathroom. The rooms were tiny – 2 single beds, some hooks on the wall for clothes, but with plenty of blankets – we literally only came back to the rooms to sleep. The dining rooms were where we spent most of our down time, these were warm and toasty, either with electric heaters or fires, and with plenty of seating. Overall, we had a good experience – almost luxurious when compared to sleeping in tents!!
Food and Drink – Starting with Kathmandu streets, you’ll see signs of ‘Dal-Bhaat Power’ everywhere!! Like in India, dal-bhaat – rice with a lentil curry – is a staple here. And every single night, that was our dinner – the altitude messes with both the appetite and digestion – so this is literally the perfect meal – easy to digest comfort food, and although it does get a little monotonous, your body will be grateful! We started our days with eggs and toast, lunch was a little varied. Try the Thupka – Tibetan noodle soup, and the momos and the fried noodles! And once we discovered grilled cheese sandwiches made with yak’s cheese – we could not get enough!! I was hooked on to the lemon-ginger-honey drink – and Ajey got Indian masala tea with every meal as well! Drinking water – Ganesh had water purification tablets, and he would diligently fill our bottles 3 times a day – you will need to drink almost 5 liters of water every day to stay hydrated! You can also ask for boiled water or bottled water, which will be more expensive – but we did just fine with the purification tablets. The menus were pretty exotic – catering to the mainly Western hikers – but avoid the temptation and stick to the basics. Considering there’s no refrigeration and all groceries are carried up from Lukla – meat and meat products should also be avoided. Last thing you need is an upset stomach!!
Take care of yourself – The 2 things to watch out for during the trek are altitude sickness and sunstroke. Protection from the sun – wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, and sunscreen on every bit of exposed skin – every single day! It may be cold, but even on cloudy days, the sun has a fierce strength, and the UV can really, really burn! I literally got burned on my wrist where I had a gap between my glove and the end of the sleeve. Altitude sickness – there’s very little you can do about this – Diamox will help to a certain extent. But you don’t know how the altitude is going to affect you until you’re there – physical fitness, age, there is really no metric there – so there’s no advance preparation. The acclimatization days will certainly help, so don’t try to skip those. If you’re feeling fine, don’t obsessively check your oxygen levels – sometimes seeing a lower number can cause stress which can have an adverse impact. With all my allergies, I was worried about how I would do with the thin air – but surprisingly, I was actually breathing better in the crisp, clean air. Watch out for any unusual aches or pains – and don’t take any unnecessary risks on the trail. Pace yourself – it’s not a race – and keep your eyes on the final prize!
Listen to your guide – Whether you’re an experienced trekker or a novice like me – keep in mind, the true expert here is your guide. Listen as they tell you about the local customs – like going around prayer stones and stupas only in a clockwise way. As you ascend to higher altitudes, your guide is the best judge of your physical condition. If – God forbid – there is a point on the trek where you’re hit by altitude sickness, and your guide decides it’s in your best interest to descend or even evacuate immediately – don’t try to override. I know it will be a gut-wrenching, heartbreaking decision to not reach the end goal – but altitude sickness, especially if your blood oxygen levels drops to a dangerous level – can even be fatal. And the only cure is to descend immediately. Have a backup plan ready in case of an emergency – if you’re in a group, does everyone turn back? Who stays with the affected person? And always keep in mind – that is not a weakness or failure if you have to turn back – it is simply self-preservation, and it takes away nothing from the effort you have put in to get here.
Horses and helicopters – Is there an alternate to walking for so long? Well, you can completely skip the hiking – and take a helicopter tour right from Kathmandu to EBC – for an astronomical price!! There are ponies or horses available between stretches of the hike – if you’re indisposed – I did have a horse from Lobuche to Pheriche on the way back. But doing the whole thing on horseback? I don’t think that would be work – for one thing, horseback is extremely uncomfortable. Every bone in your body is jolted, and your thighs and backside will be pummeled mercilessly by the saddle. After 4 hours, I couldn’t wait to get off that horse! One thing I would have considered is taking a helicopter back from EBC to either Lukla or Kathmandu. The last 3 days of walking back to Lukla really dragged – I mean, there literally was no motivation at all!!
Connectivity – We bought a N-Cell SIM card in Kathmandu, with expected coverage through the trek – but we hardly ever got cell service at all. So if you like to listen to music as you walk – make sure you have your playlists downloaded to your phone! The teahouses didn’t always have WiFi – a lot of places there was an extra charge, and even then the signal wasn’t that strong – but enough to text your family and let them know you’re doing fine! I kind of enjoyed the liberation of being off-grid – using the phone only as a camera, and not worrying about updates or posts as went along!
Tipping – In addition to the price of the tour, your guide and porter will expect a tip at the end of the trek. Rule of thumb is $10 per day for each person in your group – to be split up between your crew. They will also appreciate any gear, or warm clothing or snacks that you are left with – actually, make sure you have at least some things you will be comfortable giving away!
Section 4 – You did it!! – After you’re back in Kathmandu, it’s time to celebrate your incredible achievement! Spend a day here – visit the Pashupatinath Temple, shop for souvenirs and enjoy some of the best restaurants and night life right there in Thamel!!
Whew! And that’s a wrap – not just the ABCs, but all the way to Z for the Everest Base Camp trek!! I am happy to answer any other questions you may have – just drop a comment, or shoot me an email! And Happy Trekking!!
As promised, here are some useful Amazon links:
A place called home... 